Mr. Riggs the wine guy
After finishing high school in 1992, having failed to muster the requisite money to go to the overpriced universities that had accepted me, I polished off my hiking thumb and hit the road. From Virginia, to my native Kentucky, then Colorado (via the Florida Keys), and a lovely, vivid while on the Central Coast of California, I traveled to and fro, usually with absolutely no money - but a beat-up guitar with which to line the belly. I ended up in Eugene in '96, where I began my wine career with Randy at The French Horn. Time and fortune found my tides running northward, and I settled in Portland three years later, continuing my work with wines. In the process I fathered a wonderful young Aidan and betrothed a brilliant Lisa. An aficionado of Beat prose, Haight music, and Philadelphia sports, I am a language-loving musician who makes a damn good plate of seared ahi with blackberry reduction sauce, and, yes, I favor open-toed shoes. I was delighted to come home to John's in February of 2006.
Mr. Mike the wine guy
In short: Reed College graduate, recovering attorney, itinerant wine consultant and junkie priest. I first drank Oregon Pinot Noir with a group of nuts that used to meet at the Burgundy and Bleu (thank you Jim Clark!) Then I took a wonderful course from John Poston at Pastaworks in 1985, Don Oman, Peter DeGarmo and Fred Carlo were part of the group. I attended seminars on Oregon wine at The Grape and Grain, and Sundance Grocery in Eugene in 1987. 1989-1991 drank Burgundies with a crazy dentist in Anchorage Alaska. In 1991 I moved back to Portland and helped select wine at the Cheshire Cat wine and cheese store with Ron Brounleuwee. I led northwest wine tastings on the Portland Spirit cruise boat wine 1993-1997. 1998-2001 worked on pectoral muscles and read Bukowski poetry. 2002 Ascended to the throne at John's Marketplace succeeding the inimitable James Harp. Recently I was asked to be a wine judge for the Indie Wine Fest for 2005 and 2006 competitions.
2002-Present, I am the Galactic Wine Tsar at John's Marketplace and happy to collaborate with Mr. Riggs (a.k.a. Riggs Fulmer,) a formidable wine savant, and a junkie priest in his own right.
Whites- Chateau de Chasseloir Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine 2002 $17.99
This is my favorite Muscadet of all time. The Melon grape struts and preens here, flaunting sexy minerals and a cascade of gorgeous, starry acidity. Lithe, but still soft and caressing on the tongue, this wine shows both Muscadet’s effortless ageability and its penchant for pairing with seafood. In fact, there is a decidedly fresh, maritime note singing throughout this wine. Absolutely wonderful. - Domaine Baron Touraine (Sauvignon Blanc) 2004 $9.99
Hands down, the best value in Sauv Blanc in the store; in fact, it’s my favorite in the Portland market right now. When you can’t afford Dagueneau… OK, it’s nothing like Dagueneau, save in cepage, but it’s loaded with snappy white grapefruit and lime flower. Marrying French structure and backbone with a New World fruitiness (more Oregon than Kiwi), it’s a no-brainer at this price. - Trimbach Gewurztraminer 2004 $14.99
Gewurz is one of the world’s most distinctive grapes. This one, bone-dry, is a textbook example of the varietal. You’ll find aromas of rose petals, lychee, Buddha’s hand citron, and the finishing breath of five-spice that earned the grape its name (“gewurz” comes from the German word for “spicy”). Perfect with Indian or Thai curry, although the dryness of the wine could be buried under intense heat, so order mild with this one and prepare to swoon. - Ayres Pinot Blanc 2006 $14.99
I’ll quote myself (and that doesn’t grow hair on your palms, no matter what that nun said!): “Great Pinot Blanc from a helluva nice Midwestern boy relocated to the rainforest. The nose is…alive with lime meringue, pain grille, fresh Bosc pear, and even a hint of white lily. On the palate you’ll taste melon, a breath of licorice, and fresh-cut grass, with a long, dry, mineral-driven finish. - Della Scala Pinot Grigio 2006 $6.99
This northern Italian Grigio is just plain delicious. It’s crisp and dry, but quite well made, with surprising structure for such an inexpensive wine. Don’t think, just drink! The “cheap white wine” I put in customers’ hands when they ask for such. As good as, but cheaper than, Cycles Gladiator, although no naked girl on the front, alas.
Red
- Chateau de Fontalem Marmandais 2004 $12.99
Marmandais is the Gresham of Bordeaux. Just kidding, except insofar as it’s an adjacent appellation to the aforementioned heavy hitter. The wine is made of the usual suspects, including an assertive 10% of Malbec that sings tobacco leaves through the supple curtains of cassis and black cherry. Wonderful backbone and tannins frame the whole thing. A great deal; and we have the last two cases in town. - Chanrion “Domaine De la Voute des Crozes” Cote-de-Brouilly 2005 $18.99
Again I plagiarize an existing talker: “The first thing you’ll notice is the lovely, blushing violet hue, limpid and brilliant. Give it a good decanting, and it will blossom, revealing an intriguing nose of roses, dried blueberries, white pepper, and mossy stones. On the palate it is silky and lithe, with expressive flavors of salmonberries, briny minerals, wildflowers, and fresh olives.” It’s gotten even better in the year since I wrote that; 2005 Beaujolais is something to be searched out and hoarded, a marvelous vintage. - Mount Eden Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 $38.50
My favorite California Cabs come from the beautiful backdrop of mountains above Santa Cruz, and that’s to say Ridge and Mt. Eden. “This, my friends, is Cabernet the way God intended- or, given its breathtakingly seductive, erotic layers of pure hedonism, perhaps I should say as the Goddess intended. Did I mention that this wine is STUNNING, with exquisite raspberry, cassis, leather, cedar. Fresh herbs, blood, stones-after-rain, wildflowers…pant, pant… No joke. Decant this wine and fasten your seatbelts.” Mr. Mike gave me a bottle of ’77 Mt. Eden for Xmas, and it was almost entirely still together- a magnificent wine. I know it’s expensive, but it truly merits the price; if this were from Napa, it would easily go for $100-$150. - Marchesi di Gresy Dolcetto 2004 $14.99
Mr. Mike and I were blown away by this wine at a recent tasting over on Trendy-third. If you don't know the wines of Marchesi di Gresy, you should- and this awesome Dolcetto is a great place to start. It has Dolcetto's trademark vivid purple robe, with all that bucolic floral and fleshy character you look for. A ridiculous value in lush Piemontese juice. - River’s Edge Black Oak and Elkton Vyd. Pinot Noir 2005 $24.99
Both of these cuvees display the direction southern Oregon wines are headed, and it’s a good direction. The Black Elk shows a touch more dark berried fruits, with the Elkton being perhaps a touch more restrained. Both are loaded with varietally correct flavors and are drinking wonderfully right now- although they’ll keep getting better for 3-5 years, I would guess.
HIGH THURSDAY CELEBRATION: PIEMONTE
This will be a special tasting of the wines of Piedmont, in northern Italy, with a focus on the Nebbiolo wines of Barbaresco. Our guest and guide will be Ellen Dull of Lemma Wines, discussing and pouring, among others, single-vineyard offerings from Produttori di Barbaresco. The entry fee will be $20, and the tasting will run from 6 to 8 PM. I'll send out a more detailed email next week, but mark it on your calendars now- you won't want to miss it!
THURSDAY, MARCH 6, 2008
at John's Marketplace
6-8 PM
$20
PIEMONTE!
-Cheers from Mike and Riggs...
Check out Mr. Riggs Wine and Beer blog here!
"...support John's Marketplace .....and keep Portland weird." -TM
John's Marketplace is located at
3535 SW Multnomah Blvd
Portland, OR 97219
Wine order hot-line voice mail: 503-203-3384
Email orders preferred: Place your wine order
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